So, you’ve decided that a Persian kitten is to be the new Family member! Congratulations. Good choice! (I would say that though, wouldn’t I?!!!)

Seriously though, in my experience, Persians, with their placid, laid-back attitude to life fit in to their new homes very quickly, and soon settle down even if there are other pets.

I assume that you have done your homework via the Net or your local Library, and have learnt the basic rules of care. Grooming – they need to be combed every day, brushing is not good enough, as it does not get down to the skin. If the kitten is to be allowed out when it is older, your garden must be escape-proof, as Persians have no “Street Cred”. If you are letting it out, you ought to get it micro chipped, just in case it gets lost. Not to let it out if it is raining. (You’ll see the reason for this if you do, next time you have to groom it!). Regular worming and flea prevention are most important, not only for thir health, but for yours as well! Annual Boosters, to include FELV and FIV as well, are essential. You will also have decided whether it is a pet you want, or if you want to Show or breed from it. If you have bought as a pet, you will need to spay/neuter, between 7 – 9 months. It is advisable to carry on with any insurance that the breeder supplied, or take a policy out on the kitten yourself.

Having sorted all that out, how do you go about finding the perfect pet for you? It is better to find a G.C.C.F. Registered Breeder – (Cats equivalent of Crufts!). Your local Vets may know of someone, or you may know someone who is owned by a Persian. You can find Persian Cat Breeders/ Cat Clubs web sites via the net. Your newsagent could also order a copy of one of the Cat Magazines – most will have a County by County listing of Cat Breeders.

Having found your Breeder, telephone or e-mail, and tell them what you are looking for, (male, female, colour, pet, Show, breed) and ask them if they have any kittens available. If they haven’t, they may know someone who has.Try not to be too dogmatic about colour or sex, as you might reject the “Perfect one!” Of course, if you have made up your mind what you really, really want, don’t be fobbed off. Wait!

If you are able to make an appointment to view, KEEP IT! (At least telephone if you are unable to make it). PLEASE DO NOT make arrangements to view more than ONE Breeder a day. You might end up transferring an infection from one house to another!

Right, you’re on your way to see kittens. You have with you your Husband/Wife/Mother/Father/Brother/Sister/Aunt/Best Friend/Children(Well scrubbed and cautioned about their behaviour!), but not all of those mentioned please. The Breeder/kittens will simply be overwhelmed!

When you arrive, and the door opens, what should NOT rush out to greet you is a SMELL! Cats who are properly looked after do not advertise their presence in this manner!

Please don’t grab the kitten and try to give it a cuddle. Get down on your knees and play with it, so it realises you are a friend. Once it is happy, pick it up and check out the following:-

You should be able to pick it up without it turning into a Wild Thing!

All the kittens should have clean eyes (No sign of any discharge)

2.

Their bottoms should be clean. (No sign of the “Runs”)

Their ears should be clean inside (No sign of black bits, possible ear mites)

There should be no signs of fleas or flea dirts in their coats.

The kittens should look plump and coats should be well groomed.

Ask the Breeder to show you its mouth, so you can see the teeth and jaws. You don’t have to be an expert to see if the teeth are straight and the mouth closes properly.

Ask to see the pedigree, complete with Registration numbers for at least three generations, the pink registration slip which shows the Parents, Grandparents and kitten’s details, and whether it is on the Active or Non Active Register – vital if you are buying it for breeding, and also the Veterinary Vaccination Certificate. There should be two entries, three weeks apart, to show it has had the full course. If the FELV box is not ticked, ask if the parents have been blood tested and inocculated against it. If not, and you buy the kitten, take it straight to your Vet and have it blood tested, and if clear, get the first jab done there and then. If there’s a problem, take the kitten straight back! Feline Leukaemia kills – there is no cure, and it usually hits young cats.

Ask if there is any Insurance with the kitten. If not, your Vet’s practice usually has leaflets on display.

If the Breeder cannot or will not answer all your questions fully and freely, and objects to your third degree, has no questions to ask you, thank her/him and LEAVE! If the kitten appears unwell, or has any of the signs you have been advised to look out for, thank her/him and LEAVE.

DO NOT, let your heart rule your head, don’t feel sorry for the poor little thing. There is something wrong. As in every walk of life, there are the Good, the Bad and the downright Awful!

No pedigree kitten whose Breeder is Registered is allowed to go to it’s new home before 13 weeks of age, and it must be vaccinated against Cat ‘Flu and Enteritis at least, and must be free from fleas and mites, and in good health. It should have been wormed from the age of 6 weeks, at two weekly intervals.

I hope this helps, and I haven’t put you off! Good Hunting!